sardinia dreaming, 2011

"What's the rope for?"

Seems like a dream.

It wasn’t.

At least, I don’t think it was…

My first sports climbing holiday. Not a weekend. Or a day. A whole week of it.

Flying into Sardinia was a little rocky, with cross winds gently telling the plane who is boss. Then a 2 hour drive to the town of Cala Gonone where we were warmly greeted by the owners of a chalet we had rented for the week. She had baked us a cake, seriously! After a walk along the beach, pizza, a few beers and an early night, we were up bright as buttons for the first day on the rocks!

The first crag, Cala Fuili, was just down the road and directly on the beach. Single pitch and varying difficulty. After a couple of climbs to get the feel of it, it became apparent that the rock was grippy, super grippy. Although my first climb was terrible, I got into the swing of things after the second or third. Then down to the beach for a sandwich of cheese and salami (this became a staple), a little swim in the sea, then over to another set of climbs.

The next day we ventured to Budinetto. A super crag with amazing views. Here we found a mixture of single and multi pitches. After warming up on some single pitches in the morning, we decided to go for a 2 stage multi pitch. Shame we ended up way off route, but lucky we had taken some trad gear up with us! You will not find this route in a guide-book, but if you find yourself climbing past a bee hive, sing – i’m just a little black rain cloud… Pooh, where are you, little bear friend?

Claire, Jim, me, Jon, at the top

Back at the car we found a little kitty sheltering from the sun. Cute as.

After a day off sea kayaking, we explored further down the beach to a cave called Biddiriscottai. This wasn’t my favorite crag on the trip. The rock felt greasy from the sea breeze. Still, we frolicked around there for the day, had fun, then went for post climb drinkies.

On our final full day we set our sites on a four pitch climb at La Poltrona.

An incredible slab with several multi pitches. That morning we made it up a 110m route. Actually, I think we over shot it. Maybe I should sort out my route reading skills. Although it wasn’t a technically difficult climb, it was my first 4 stage multi pitch, and I lead the last two stages. So I was pretty chuffed. Then after a spot of lunch, we finished the afternoon on some of the other great single pitches.

Just time on the last day to nip back to Cala Fuili for a couple of climbs and a dip, before returning home.

Simply the best holiday. Can’t wait for this year’s season to begin.

Go team! Jon, me, Claire and Jim


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